This is something I’ve wanted to build for a long time—a single page that answers the most common questions I hear from people buying (or already owning) a paddle board. Some of it’s basic. Some of it’s nerdy. A lot of it clears up stuff that gets repeated online but isn’t actually true.

If you're new to paddle boarding, or just tired of sorting through bad advice, bookmark this and check back from time to time. I’ll keep adding to it as more questions come in.

We are going to break down the basics and cover some of the most common questions, and talk about what matters and what is just marketing fluff. 

Yes—100%.

The shape of your paddle board has a huge impact on how it feels on the water. You don’t need to be a gear nerd to notice the difference between a wide, stable all-around board and a long, narrow touring board that glides fast and straight.

Here’s a rough breakdown:

• All-around paddleboards (like most 10'6–11' inflatables) are good at everything, great at nothing. They’re stable, easy to paddle, and what most people should buy.

• Touring shapes (longer and more pointed) go farther and faster with less effort. They’re great for distance paddling, fitness, or covering flatwater lakes efficiently.

• Surf-style shapes are shorter, with more rocker and curved tails. They turn easier and are designed for waves or agility—not speed or stability.

• Fishing paddle boards are wider, more stable, and often built to hold extra gear. Think of them like a floating dock with a fin.

• Whitewater shapes are short, heavily rockered, and made to spin, surf, and survive impacts.

Bottom line: If you don’t know what shape you need, go all-around. But if you have a goal—speed, fishing, surfing—there’s a shape that’ll make your life easier.

A lot.

Hard boards are shaped foam wrapped in fiberglass, carbon, or plastic. Inflatables are drop-stitch fabric that gets pumped full of air until stiff enough to stand on. That’s the basics, but the difference goes deeper.

 Hard Boards

• Shape control. You can fine-tune the rocker, rails, and hull contours. That makes a difference in very specific scenarios—like ocean surfing or racing.

• Lively feel. They respond quickly and feel more connected to the water—useful in waves or when edging hard.

• Some are light. Not all hard boards are heavy. Race boards especially are light and stiff—just fragile and expensive.

But the downsides are real:

• They dent, crack, and chip easily.

• They take up space.

• You need a roof rack or a garage.

• And unless you’re using them for something specific, they don’t offer much extra.

  
  

Inflatable Boards

• Durability. They bounce off rocks, don’t crack, and generally take abuse better than hard boards.

• Convenience. Roll them up, travel with them, store them anywhere.

• Stability. This isn’t just because of width. Inflatable boards are the same thickness nose to tail and rail to rail—so the volume is distributed more evenly. That helps the board sit higher and feel more stable on the water, especially at low speeds.

Inflatable boards also flex under load, and that can hurt performance unless the internal structure is dialed. The biggest factor is the core —woven, cross-woven, knitted, etc.—but more on that later.

The rail construction (fused vs glued) matters for durability and lifespan, and yes, contributes a bit to stiffness. But the real feel of the board starts inside.

Which should you choose?

If you’re surfing in the ocean or riding a standing wave , go hard board. Every time. The shaping and response matter.

For everything else? A well-made inflatable just makes life easier. It won’t get dinged, you’ll use it more often, and you can stash it in a closet or the back of your car. Get the right one, and you’ll forget it’s inflatable the moment you stand on it.

Most paddle board companies focus on size and style—but the shape is what actually matters. Rocker, outline, and rails are what determine how a board paddles, turns, tracks, and handles under your feet. And for what it’s worth, a lot of boards aren’t shaped for performance at all. They're designed to look good in a photo. This isn’t that.

Rocker: The curve from nose to tail

Rocker is how much the board curves when viewed from the side.

There are two main types:

• Continuous rocker : a smooth arc from nose to tail. Good for turning, surfing, and whitewater.

• Kick rocker : mostly flat through the center, with lift at the nose and tail. Better glide, still some maneuverability.

What matters is how the nose and tail rocker work together . Water needs to enter cleanly under the nose and exit off the tail without pushing or dragging. Too much or too little at either end and the board just feels wrong—sluggish, unstable, or sticky.

Outline: The shape from above

The outline controls how the board tracks and turns.

• More parallel = more stability and better tracking . You’ll see this in touring and fishing boards.

• Tapered = easier to turn . Great for surf, yoga, or maneuvering around obstacles.

• A wide tail increases stability, but it also resists turning—so you might need to shift your weight for pivot turns.

Rails: The edge of the board

On hard boards, rails can be shaped—hard, soft, beveled, even tucked under—to affect how the board carves and releases water. That makes a big difference in surf and race boards.

On inflatables, rails are always round . It’s the most generic rail shape, but it works. You lose the sharp release and grip you get on a hard board, but gain forgiveness and predictability.

Rail construction also impacts durability and stiffness, but the core matters more . We’ll get into that later.

Part 2: Paddle Board Shaping 101 – Length, Width, Stability & Speed

H2: Paddle Board Shaping 101: Length, Width, Stability & Speed

A board’s shape determines how it feels—not just how it looks. Every decision in shaping is a trade-off between stability, speed, maneuverability, and tracking. Here’s what actually changes when you mess with size and shape.

Length

• Longer boards glide better and track straighter. Great for touring, fitness, or paddling longer distances. But they’re harder to turn and can feel unstable when not moving.

• Shorter boards are easier to handle and turn quickly. Ideal for surf, rivers, or smaller paddlers—but slower and less efficient.

Width

• Wider = more stable , especially at low speeds.

• Narrower = faster , but requires better balance.

Stability comes at a cost of speed—but smart shaping can help lessen that trade-off. That’s where outline and rocker come in.

Common Shapes and What They’re For

• All-around : balanced mid-length boards with moderate width. Good at everything, great at nothing.

• Touring/race : long and narrow with a pointed nose. Fast and efficient, not playful.

• Fishing : wide through the nose and tail for max stability. Usually flatter rocker to help with glide.

• Yoga : very wide in the center, tapered nose and tail. Stable platform that still paddles well.

• Whitewater : short, wide, with aggressive rocker. Gets up and over waves and holes quickly.

Takeaway

• Long = fast, short = nimble.

• Wide = stable, narrow = efficient.

• More rocker = better for rough water, but slower on flat.

• Wide tail = more stable under load, but harder to turn.

Every design choice has a trade-off. The key is balance—and knowing what you’re using the board for.

Buying a paddle board can feel overwhelming—mostly because there’s too much bad advice out there. A lot of brands want to sell you on buzzwords or flashy features instead of just helping you figure out what’s right for you.

This part breaks it down simply. No marketing. Just what matters when choosing a board that’ll actually work for what you want to do.

Start with the basics:

Where are you going to paddle?

• Flatwater (lakes, bays, calm rivers): You want something stable with decent glide. An all-around board or touring shape will work great.

• Rivers or shallow water: Go inflatable. Rocks happen.

• Whitewater: Inflatable only, with serious rocker and durability.

• Ocean/surf: Hard board. You can have fun on your inflatable, but if you really want to surf get a hardboard. 

What do you want to do on the board?

• Just paddle around? All-around board.

• Go longer distances? Touring or performance board—longer, narrower, more efficient.

• Do yoga? Wide midsection, flat deck, soft padding.

• Fish? Wide, flat, stable with gear tie-downs. Bonus points for kayak seat compatibility.

• Take your dog/kids? Prioritize stability. Wide tail, full-length deck pad, and soft rails help.

What’s your size and experience level?

• Bigger paddler? You want more volume and more width. 34" wide or more.

• New to SUP? Go stable over fast. Narrow boards make beginners hate paddleboarding.

• More experienced or athletic? You can size down or go longer and narrower for performance.

Common mistakes people make:

• Choosing a board that’s too small. A cheap 10' board might look great in the photo but won’t float you properly.

• Buying based on color or deck pad print. Don’t laugh—it happens all the time.

• Chasing speed when they actually need stability. If you’re constantly falling in, you won’t care how fast it could’ve been.

When in doubt:

Pick something in the middle. 10'6" to 11', 32–34" wide, with a full-length deck pad and a real fin system.

If you’re still not sure, we built a short quiz that’ll match you to the right board in about 30 seconds. It’s not perfect, but it’s better than guessing.

Fins are one of the most overlooked parts of a paddle board—until you lose one. And then it becomes your entire personality for the rest of the day.

Let’s keep this simple. For 90% of paddling, you only need your center fin . The rest is optional, and most of what’s out there is just holdover from surfing.

Common Fin Setups

Single Fin

• Just one fin in the center.

• Great for all-around paddling, touring, yoga, fishing—single fins are dreamy.

• Easy to install, clean tracking, turns well.

2+1 (aka Thruster SUP Setup)

• One large center fin + two small side fins.

• Originally from surfing, where the side fins help with drive and turning.

• On most paddle boards? Mostly just for looks.

If you have a 2+1 system, you want the side fins to be removable . That way you can run with just the center fin (which is all most people ever need), or add the side fins in windy or choppy conditions for a little extra tracking—at the cost of some drag.

Why Side Fins?

Honestly? A lot of boards include side fins because it looks cool.

In surfing, side fins create drive and grip. You can shape them with a toe angle to help with turning. But that only works if the rails, rocker, and tail shape are designed for it—which most paddle boards aren’t. So unless you’re surfing, you probably don’t need them.

That said, side fins can help if:

• You're paddling in windy, choppy conditions (extra tracking).

• You're in very shallow water —remove the center fin and just use side fins to avoid catching.

• You just want a little more grip at the tail.

Fin Compatibility (The Thing Nobody Tells You)

If there’s one thing to care about, it’s this:
Make sure your board has a standard U.S. fin box.

That’s the industry standard. Every surf shop in the world will have a fin that fits. If you lose yours, you're covered.

Some brands cut corners and use proprietary plastic snap-in fins that only work with their boards. You save a few bucks on production cost, but you end up with a useless board if your fin breaks or floats away.

Don't be that person standing at the edge of the lake, angry and sad, because your $800 board needs a $5 part that doesn't exist.

Types of Fins

You don’t need to be a fin nerd, but here’s a quick overview of the common ones:

Dolphin Fin

• Looks like a dolphin’s dorsal fin.

• The most common fin shape.

• Good all-around balance of tracking and maneuverability.

Hatchet Fin

• Tall, flat, with a squared-off back.

• Used in touring and racing boards.

• Helps with tracking and speed, but harder to turn.

Keel Fin

• Low-profile, long and short.

• Great for shallow water, whitewater, or paddling through kelp.

• Helps with tracking while staying low enough to avoid catching on rocks.

The Bottom Line

• Use your center fin for most paddling.

• Add side fins if it’s windy or you want extra tracking.

• Skip them in shallow water.

• Always choose a board with a real fin box , not some proprietary junk.

Hard Board Construction

Most hard paddle boards are built from:

• An EPS foam core

• Wrapped in fiberglass and epoxy resin

• Sometimes reinforced with carbon fiber (especially in race boards)

• Occasionally covered with a plastic or composite outer shell for added durability

This type of construction allows for more precision in shaping: the rocker profile, bottom contours, and rail edges can all be dialed in for specific performance. That’s useful in surfing, racing, and some specialty shapes.

But hard boards also come with tradeoffs. They can be:

• Heavier (unless it’s a race board)

• Prone to dings, cracks, and pressure dents

• Harder to store and transport

Inflatable Board Construction

Inflatable SUPs are built using drop-stitch fabric —thousands of internal threads connecting the top and bottom of the board. When inflated, those threads pull tight and give the board a rigid shape.

The exterior is layered in either:

• PVC (polyvinyl chloride) – Durable, UV-resistant, widely used, and proven over time.

• TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane) – Lighter and marketed as eco-friendlier, but it’s softer and more elastic. It can degrade faster with UV exposure, and doesn’t hold up to abrasion or impacts as well as PVC.

TPU is being pushed by some brands, but in long-term durability tests, PVC still wins —especially if you paddle in rocky, sandy, or high-sun environments.

Rails: Glued vs Welded

The rails—the sides of the board—are where the seams are sealed. This is one of the most common failure points in cheap boards.

• Glued rails are common and can hold up well if made correctly.

• Welded (fused) rails use heat and pressure instead of adhesive, reducing the risk of seam separation, especially in heat or humidity.

That said, stiffness comes from the core , not the rail construction. Rails matter more for long-term durability and holding air, not how the board feels under your feet. (More on that in the stiffness section.)

Not really. It’s a marketing phrase with no standard definition. Some brands use it to imply durability, but it doesn’t actually tell you anything about the material itself.

What matters is the material type and the thickness of that material.

Most inflatable paddle boards use either PVC or TPU . PVC is the industry standard for high-performance inflatables—used in military boats, whitewater rafts, and commercial applications where durability actually matters.

Some brands have started switching to TPU. Why? Because it's lighter and more flexible. But that flexibility comes at a cost. TPU stretches and flexes more under pressure, which means less rigidity on the water. In practical terms: more bounce, less control, and reduced paddling efficiency. TPU also has lower resistance to UV exposure and abrasion , which affects long-term durability.

PVC, especially in higher denier ratings, holds its shape better and stands up to real-world abuse—rocks, sand, dragging, sun, dogs, gear, whatever.

Glide uses 1300D PVC , which is thicker than what most brands use. Many stop at 1000D or less. That higher thickness doesn’t just sound good—it’s measurable. More layers, denser fibers, and greater protection where it matters most.

The takeaway: Ignore the buzzwords. Look for real specs—denier rating, material type, and construction quality. That’s what determines how long your board will actually last.

Most companies if you ask will not know what denier they are using. :(

When people talk about the “layers” in an inflatable paddle board, they’re referring to the outer shell that surrounds the dropstitch core. These layers protect the board from abrasion and help determine how stiff, durable, and heavy it is.

Here’s how it breaks down:

Single Layer Construction

This is the most basic—and cheapest—type of construction. It’s just one layer of PVC laminated to the dropstitch core. That’s it.

• Pros : Lightweight and cheap to produce.

• Cons : Not as durable, and noticeably more flexy. You’ll feel it under your feet, especially if you’re over 160 lbs or paddling in choppy water. You’re also more likely to see the board deform over time.

These are the boards that tend to sag in the middle and don’t track well. You’ll see this construction on entry-level boards sold on Amazon or big-box stores.

Double Layer Construction

This adds a second layer of PVC laminated over the first. That extra layer adds stiffness and durability, making the board feel more solid and resistant to damage.

• Pros : Increased rigidity, better puncture resistance, longer lifespan.

• Cons : Heavier, and more prone to cosmetic imperfections from hand-gluing and uneven lamination. It can also delaminate over time , especially if the adhesive process wasn’t done well. Heat, humidity, and human error during gluing can all play a role.

Double layer was the gold standard for a long time, but newer methods have improved on it.

Fusion Construction

Fusion is the next evolution. Instead of gluing two PVC layers together, the outer layer is heat-bonded or laminated during the manufacturing process . This creates a board that’s lighter than traditional double layer, but just as stiff—if not more so.

• Pros : Excellent stiffness-to-weight ratio. Clean finish. More consistent quality across production.

• Cons : Not all “fusion” constructions are the same—some companies just use the word as a buzzword, even if the bonding process is halfway between fusion and glue.

True fusion tech is used on higher-end boards, and it pairs best with woven or cross-woven dropstitch cores. Which brings us to the next section...

Rails make or break your board. Seam failure is the enemy of fun, and it's not something you’re fixing in the field. If you want your inflatable paddle board to last, pay attention to how the rails are built.

The Three Types of Rail Construction

1. Glued Rails

• The original method: layers of PVC glued along the rail seam to seal the board.

• Pro: It works—if it’s done well.

• Con: It’s only as good as the factory floor. Bad humidity, uneven glue lines, or sloppy pressure = early failure. And there’s plenty of room for human error .

2. Welded Rails

• A newer method that fuses rail layers using heat instead of glue.

• Pro: Welds don’t break down over time like glue can.

• Con: Harder to repair. If a welded seam fails, you’re in for a more difficult and less reliable fix. Still possible—but not ideal.

3. Fused + Glued Hybrid Rails (Glide's Method)

• The rail is heat-fused for structure, then finished with a glued outer band for added protection and flexibility.

• You get the strength of a weld, with the repairability of a glued seam .

• It’s not just “belt and suspenders.” It’s the most field-tested, real-world-durable rail system we’ve seen.

The Truth About Rails and Stiffness

Some brands like to pitch “quad-layer rails” or “carbon rails” as the secret to stiffness. That’s not how it works.

• The core provides 90% of your board’s stiffness.

• Rails are about durability , air retention , and long-term reliability .

• That said, reinforcing the rails can help support a stiff board—but it’s a marginal gain, not a game-changer.

And if you’re seeing rail gimmicks or wild marketing claims, just know we’ll unpack that mess in a later section.

Bottom Line

Your rails are the frontline of failure. Glued rails are only as good as the person holding the glue gun. Welded rails are strong, but not forgiving. And Glide’s hybrid method gives you durability and peace of mind.

Stiffness matters. If a board flexes, the shape stops working. You lose tracking, stability, and glide. It feels off because it is off. You want a board that holds its form under pressure—literally.

So what actually makes a paddleboard stiff, and what’s just marketing? Let’s break it down from highest impact to lowest.

Core Material

The foundation. Nothing else comes close.

• Knitted Dropstitch
  Threads only run in one direction, so the fabric flexes on one axis. You can pump more PSI to get it stiffer, but there’s diminishing returns—and a higher chance of failure. There’s always some flex, especially under load.
  → Sweet spot: 15–18 PSI.
  → Feel: Softer underfoot, not as responsive.

• Woven Dropstitch
  Threads crisscross both directions. This limits flex in both axes and gets the board stiff with less air.
  → Sweet spot: 12–14 PSI.
  → Feel: Crisp, responsive, more like a hardboard.

• Cross-Woven Dropstitch
  More threads in both directions, spaced tighter together. The result is a lighter, stiffer board with almost zero give.
  → Sweet spot: 12–14 PSI.
  → Feel: Premium, snappy, ultra-stable. Closest thing to a hardboard you’ll get.

Deck & Bottom Stringers

Good bonus. Not a fix for bad materials.

• Glued-on strips meant to reduce flex, often visible as a dark stripe along the top or bottom.

• Helps distribute pressure across the board and adds some rigidity.

• Can be effective, but it’s superficial—stringers don’t replace a quality core.

• Often used as a cheaper way to boost perceived quality in mid-tier boards.

Extra Rail Layers

Nice to have—mainly for durability.

• Adds some torsional stiffness, especially when paired with a good core.

• Helps reduce flex side-to-side (twist), but doesn’t change vertical stiffness much.

• Great for durability—especially in rental or heavy-use scenarios.

• More layers = better. But don’t expect miracles without the right core under it.

Carbon Rails & Other Buzzwords

Mostly for show. Not backed by performance data.

• “Carbon rails” are often just printed PVC or vinyl wraps.

• Real carbon fiber gets its strength from resin saturation under pressure—not happening on an inflatable.

• Doesn’t mean zero benefit, but if there’s no independent bend test, assume it’s just marketing.

• Brands love buzzwords. Customers love performance. Check the bend tests.

TL;DR

• #1: Core material — Woven > Cross-Woven = Best stiffness. It’s 90% of the equation.

• #2: Stringers — Good if used with a decent core. Useless otherwise.

• #3: Extra rail layers — Small stiffness gain. Big durability gain.

• #4: “Carbon” rails, fancy graphics — Mostly just lipstick.

If your board flexes, it won’t perform as it should, it will be less stable, but as a bonus, it does look like a floating taco! That’s why our inflatable paddle boards are built with cross-woven cores, reinforced rails, and high-pressure ratings—to give you a stiffer, more responsive ride that paddles like it should.

You’ve seen the valve: “Max 20 PSI” or “Inflate to 15–18 PSI.”

Let’s cut through the confusion and discuss what PSI actually means—and how it relates to construction quality.

Max PSI vs Recommended PSI

Your valve usually shows two things:

• Max PSI – the structural limit of the board.

• Recommended PSI – the sweet spot for performance.

Construction Type Affects Pressure

• Knitted dropstitch boards tend to need higher PSI—closer to 16–18 PSI.  That’s because the material stretches more on one axis.

• Woven or cross-woven dropstitch locks out that flex and gets stiff at lower PSI— 12–14 is plenty.

The difference? Knitted boards often require more pressure to perform—but that also pushes them closer to the failure point. Woven boards feel solid without getting anywhere near the limit.

Max PSI Is a Quality Signal

You don’t need to inflate to max PSI, but that number tells you how well a board is built.

• Cheaper boards might max out at 15–18 PSI. That’s not a lot of margin of error.

• Higher-end boards , like Glide, are rated to 25 PSI . You’ll never need to go that high—but it’s a sign the board was built to last.

It’s one of the easiest ways to sniff out quality in a world of inflated marketing claims.

A Word of Warning About Sun and Heat

If you’re near max PSI, never leave your board in direct sunlight or a hot car .
Heat increases internal pressure and softens the glue, and that’s when seams fail.

Even with a well-built board, play it safe:

• Don’t inflate beyond the recommended range.

• Let a little air out if you’re storing the board in the sun.

TL;DR

• Recommended PSI (usually 12–14) = best for performance and longevity.

• Knitted boards need more air (16–18 PSI) to get stiff. That brings them closer to failure.

• Woven or cross-woven boards stiffen up at lower PSI and don’t need to be pushed.

• Max PSI isn’t a target—it’s a clue to construction quality. Higher = better build.

• Never leave your board fully inflated in the sun . Heat + pressure = boom!

A paddleboard valve might not sound like a big deal—until it fails. Just like with your fin box, you want standard, replaceable parts that work with everything. No gimmicks.

Halkey-Roberts (HR) Valve

This is the gold standard for inflatable paddleboards. It’s the most common valve system in the industry for a reason:

• Universal compatibility – Works with nearly all manual and electric SUP pumps.

• Serviceable – Threaded and removable with a valve wrench, meaning you can replace or tighten it yourself if needed.

• Reliable – Proven over decades in inflatable tech. There’s a reason it’s used on rescue boats and military inflatables.

Proprietary or Off-Brand Valves

Boards that use these are usually cutting corners. You might save a few bucks, but:

• They often only work with the pump that came with the board .

• They’re usually non-replaceable —if it fails, you're out of luck.

• Replacement parts are hard to find , especially when the brand disappears or stops supporting the model.

Bottom line:
Make sure your paddleboard has a Halkey-Roberts valve . It’ll save you time, money, and a lot of frustration when you're looking for a new pump or need to make a repair.

Why Most Boards Are 6” Thick

Most quality inflatable paddleboards today are 6" thick. That’s not a coincidence—it’s because 6" offers the best mix of:

• Stiffness : More vertical space for the dropstitch threads to resist flex. This is especially important on cheaper boards with weaker cores.

• Stability : More volume = more displacement = easier balance. Ideal for new paddlers or those bringing dogs, kids, or gear.

• Load Support : A thicker board supports heavier paddlers without riding low or feeling spongy.

What About 4"–5" Thick Boards?

Thinner boards are making a comeback. Originally, 4" and 5" was all the early dropstitch material allowed. But now brands are pushing them again for a few reasons:

• Marketing : “Closer to the water,” “better feel,” “more surfy”—it all sounds appealing.

• Cost Cutting : Less material = lower costs to produce and ship.

These boards can still be just as durable as a 6" board—thickness doesn’t equal strength when it comes to overall durability. But you do give up some performance.

Key Tradeoffs

Let’s break it down:

The extras don’t get as much attention as the core, rails, or rocker—but they still matter. These details shape how your paddleboard feels day-to-day, how long it lasts, and whether you curse it or love it after a long paddle.

Deck Pads

• Material: Almost all boards use EVA foam. It’s soft under your feet, grippy when wet, and holds up well to sun and water.

• Texture: Grooved textures add traction. Smooth pads are better for yoga or paddling barefoot.

• Coverage: Full-length deck pads are ideal for SUP yoga, kids, dogs, or laying flat. Not necessary on fishing boards, where gear mounts eat up space.

D-Rings, Bungees & Tie-Down Points

• D-rings: Stainless steel D-rings are the standard. If they’re coated or painted, they’ll rust or flake over time.

• Bungees: Simple, strong bungee systems on the nose and tail help carry dry bags or gear. Look for reinforced anchor points, not flimsy glued tabs.

• Layout: You don’t need 10 bungees and 14 D-rings. Clean design usually works better—and looks better.

Accessory & Gear Mounts

• Fishing mounts: Fixed-position mounting plates (like Scotty or Railblaza) are great if you’ll actually use them. Otherwise, they just get in the way.

• Cameras and gadgets: Some boards come with action camera mounts, but a suction cup or clamp works too.

• Downside? Not performance—just comfort. Mounts on the deck can get annoying if you’re trying to lay down, lounge, or paddle barefoot. That’s why we keep mounts minimal and purpose-driven.

Handles, Bags, Pumps & Leashes

• Handles: You want a center handle at minimum. Nose and tail handles make tandem carrying and tying off easier. Paddle holders or grab loops are nice extras.

• Bags: Boards like the Retro Elite come with wheel bags for easy rolling. Boards like the Wander series skip the wheels—lighter to carry, lower cost.

• Pumps: Dual-action hand pumps are standard. Electric pumps make life easier—just make sure they’re compatible with your valve.

• Leashes: A coiled leash is standard for flatwater. Use it every time—falling off happens fast.

TL;DR

• ✅ Deck pads: Go full-length for yoga, pets, or extra comfort. Grooved pads offer more grip, smooth pads are better for stretching or barefoot paddling.

• ✅ D-rings & bungees: Keep it simple, strong, and rust-proof. Too many just clutter the board.

• ✅ Mounts: Great if you need them. Annoying if you don’t. Minimal is usually better.

• ✅ Handles, bags, leashes: Check for real-world usability. Wheels are nice but not mandatory. A good leash and strong handles matter more.

Whether you're fresh off your first paddle or a seasoned weekend warrior, knowing how to store , transport , and care for your paddleboard is what keeps it performing like new. This section covers the basics (and some deeper knowledge) on:

• The best way to transport your board without damaging it.

• How to store your board between paddles, off-season, or long-term.

• Maintenance tips that actually matter — and which ones are just noise.

We’ll also tackle common questions, like:

• “Can I leave it inflated?”

• “Do I need to rinse it after every use?”

• “Will the sun really kill my board?”

If you want your paddleboard to last — and keep paddling well — this section is worth a read.

Storing your paddleboard properly is one of the easiest ways to extend its life. Whether you keep it inflated or pack it away, a few simple steps can help prevent damage, mildew, or worse.

Inflated Storage: Yes, You Can

• Keep it inflated all season—or all year.
  There’s nothing wrong with storing your board fully inflated long-term as long as it’s protected from UV rays, moisture, and extreme temperatures. A garage, gear room, or shaded shed works perfectly.

• Drop a few PSI for long-term storage.
  If you’re not paddling for a while, it’s smart to reduce pressure slightly. Leaving it at full pressure in a hot garage can stress seams over time. Dropping to ~8 PSI is a good middle ground.

• Avoid pressure points.
  Don’t lean the board against sharp objects or place heavy things on top of it. You don’t want to create creases, weak spots, or indentations over time.

Deflated Storage: The Mildew Warning

• Dry your board completely.
  Even a little moisture can become a problem. If you roll up your paddleboard while it's still wet—especially if you seal it inside a bag—you’re basically creating a petri dish. Mildew and mold will grow. And yes, it will smell.

• Focus on the deck pad and seams.
  The foam deck pad holds water more than you’d think. Use a towel or let it air-dry thoroughly. Seams are another sneaky area that trap moisture if you pack up too soon.

• Loose folds are better than tight rolls.
  Don’t crank your board down like you’re vacuum-packing beef jerky. A gentle fold is enough, and it puts less strain on the rails and seams.

• Cool, dry storage is best.
  Store the board indoors when possible, away from direct sunlight, heat sources, or freezing temps. PVC can become brittle in the cold, and excessive heat can weaken adhesives.

Whether you're heading to the lake, the ocean, or just across town, transporting your paddleboard should be simple and stress-free. Here’s how to do it right—without damaging your gear or looking like a kook.

Inflatable Paddleboards

Inflatables were made for easy transport.

• Throw it on your back. Good inflatable paddleboards come with a purpose-built backpack. Glide’s bags are designed for real-world use — padded shoulder straps, hip belts, and ventilation. Great for hauling into alpine lakes, remote rivers, or just from the trunk to the beach.

• No need for roof racks. When deflated, your board fits in a car trunk, RV bin, or checked airline luggage.

• Watch the heat. If you’re transporting your board inflated, never leave it in a hot car. Heat increases internal PSI and can damage the seams or valves.

• Didn’t dry it before packing? No problem. Just lay it out to dry fully once you're home. It doesn’t need to be inflated — just unrolled so any moisture can escape. Mildew loves dark, damp spaces. Don’t let your board become a science experiment.

Hard Paddleboards

Still paddling a hard board? Here's how to move it without wrecking it.

• Use real roof racks or soft pads. Always secure your board to crossbars or a proper rack system. If you’re improvising with soft racks or foam blocks, check the tightness frequently.

• Deck down, fin forward. Always strap the board deck side down with the fin toward the front of the car. It’s more aerodynamic, more stable — and looks like you know what you’re doing.

• Never use ratchet straps. This isn’t a 4x4. Ratchets apply way too much pressure and can crush your board. Use cam straps — snug, not torqued.

• Don’t leave it strapped up. Heat + compression = warped rails or cracked finish. Load it up before your session and take it off when you’re done. Leaving it strapped to your car for days is asking for trouble.

A little maintenance goes a long way when it comes to paddleboards. Whether you're a weekend paddler or out every day, these habits will extend the life of your board, prevent common issues, and help you get the most from your investment.

Rinse After Every Use

Even if the water looked clean, always rinse your board and accessories.

• Saltwater corrodes fast. It breaks down metals, dries out plastic components, and leaves salt crystals behind that degrade materials over time. If you paddle in the ocean, rinsing is non-negotiable.

• Freshwater isn’t innocent. Mud, algae, and grime from lakes and rivers can collect in seams and on the traction pad.

• Don’t forget the accessories. Your paddle, leash, fins, and even your pump should get a rinse too. Salt can build up in pump internals and shorten its lifespan.

Let everything air dry before packing it up to prevent mildew and damage.

Dry It Completely Before Storage

Rolling up a wet board is the fastest way to grow a science experiment inside your bag.

• Avoid mildew and rot. Moisture trapped in a rolled-up board will cause mold to grow—especially around seams and under the deck pad. You’ll get dark spots, funky smells, and shortened material life.

• You don’t have to inflate it. Just unroll it and leave it in a dry, shaded area with good airflow. Even 30–60 minutes can make a big difference.

• Watch the bag too. Your carry bag can hold moisture from previous use. If your board dried but the bag didn’t, you’re still at risk.

If you weren’t able to dry it fully after a session, unroll it again when you get home. Don’t put it away sealed and wet.

Store It Out of Sunlight and Heat

UV and heat do more damage than anything you’ll encounter on the water.

• Never leave it inflated in direct sun. Pressure builds fast in the heat, especially in black or dark-colored boards. This can stress seams or even rupture the board.

• Keep it shaded and cool. Indoors is ideal. If you must store outside, use a UV-blocking cover or store it deflated in its bag.

• Let it cool before rolling. Hot PVC is more flexible and can take a set when tightly rolled, especially near seams and rails. Let it return to ambient temp before storing long-term.

Inspect Regularly

This isn’t about paranoia—it’s about prevention.

• Check all seams. Run your hands along them and look for soft bubbles or signs of lifting. These can be early signs of delamination.

• Inspect the fin box. If it’s warped, cracked, or pulling loose, it can become a weak point when pressure builds.

• Look over mounts and hardware. Especially if your board has gear mounts, make sure they’re snug and not loosening with use.

• Give your paddle and leash a once-over. Look for frayed leash cords or paddle blade cracks before they become problems.

Maintain the Valve

Your Halkey-Roberts valve is one of the few moving parts on an iSUP. It’s built to last, but it still needs a checkup.

• No O-rings here. Halkey-Roberts valves seal by threading two parts together tightly against the board’s PVC. There's no rubber gasket inside to fail, but if it gets loose, it will leak.

• Test with soapy water. Inflate the board, mix a little dish soap and water, and spray around the valve. If you see bubbles, it's leaking.

• Easy fix: snug it up. Use the included valve wrench to tighten it. This is common over time and nothing to worry about.

• Rinse after saltwater use. Salt can cause grit or buildup in the spring-loaded core. Rinse it thoroughly after ocean sessions to keep it sealing well.

Use the Right Pressure

Not every board is built the same — and that includes pressure tolerance.

• Your valve has two numbers: Max and Recommended. The recommended PSI is your sweet spot. For most high-quality woven boards, that’s around 12–14 PSI . For knitted-core boards, you'll often need 16–18 PSI to achieve the same stiffness — but that puts you closer to the material’s failure point.

• Max PSI is a sign of quality. If your board is rated only to 15 PSI, that tells you a lot about the quality of the seams, materials, and internal structure. Premium boards like Glide are rated to 25 PSI , not because you need to inflate that high, but because they’re built strong enough to handle it.

• Warning: heat plus pressure = trouble. Don’t leave a fully inflated board in a hot car or in the sun. The combo of pressure increase and seams getting softer (if glued) can lead to a very unpleasant surprise. 

Even a tough board can spring a leak. Whether it’s a pinhole, seam issue, or valve problem, here’s how to figure it out — and fix it.

Step 1: Find the Leak

• Slow leak or pressure loss? Start with the valve. Inflate the board and spray soapy water around the valve and rails. Look for bubbles.

• Pinhole leak? Apply soapy water across the board. Bubbles = air escaping. Mark the spot.

• Seam failure or delamination? Easy to see. A seam issue looks like a raised tube or bubble along the edge. A delam shows as a bubble on the surface — from marble-sized to beachball. Delam = done.

Step 2: Fix the Valve

• Always deflate before touching the valve. Never tighten under pressure — it can fail suddenly and cause injury.

• Use the included valve wrench to snug it down clockwise.

• Still leaking? Fully unscrew it, clean both halves, and screw it back together flat and tight.

• Reinflate to 6–8 PSI and test again with soapy water.

If you see bubbles, don’t panic. A loose valve is common and easily fixed.

Step 3: Patch the Damage

• Clean and dry the area.

• Use HH-66 vinyl cement (available at most hardware stores) and the patch material that came with your board.

• Lightly sand the surface. Apply glue to both patch and board.

• Wait until tacky (about 5 minutes), then press the patch on firmly.

• Clamp or weigh it down and let cure 24 hours before inflating fully.

Step 4: Know When to Stop

• Pinhole? Easy fix.

• Seam split? Sometimes fixable, but not something to mess with in the field, and more than we can cover in this quick guide. 

• Delam bubble? Done. The dropstitch has detached from the shell. No fix for that.

We can’t help with repairs on other brands — only Glide boards.

TL;DR

• Use HH-66 glue and your included patch kit.

• Always deflate before tightening the valve.

• Test with soapy water before and after repairs.

• Contact us if your Glide board has a seam issue — don’t patch over it blindly.

• Delam = dead board. Sorry. 

Keeping your board clean isn’t just about looks. Dirt, sand, and grime can wear down the surface, weaken seams, and interfere with your fin box or valve. A little attention after each paddle will go a long way toward keeping your board in great shape.

Rinse After Every Paddle

After every outing, rinse your paddleboard with fresh water—especially if you’ve been on saltwater, silty rivers, or muddy shorelines. Focus on these key spots:

• The fin box – Sand and grit can jam the fin or scratch the track.

• Under the valve cap – Fine particles here can cause slow leaks if they get into the valve seat.

• Around bungees and D-rings – These trap dirt quickly and can abrade the PVC over time.

Always let the board dry before you roll it up. If you roll it wet, you’re basically sealing up a science experiment—mildew, mold, and odor will follow.

Deep Clean Every Few Uses

If your board’s starting to look or smell funky, or if it’s been exposed to sunscreen, oil, or heavy dirt, it’s time for a deep clean.

• Use mild soap like Dawn dish soap —if it’s gentle enough for baby ducks, it’s safe for your board.

• Mix with warm water and wipe the board down with a soft sponge or microfiber cloth .

• Avoid pressure washers, bleach, or harsh solvents.

Stick to simple, safe cleaners and rinse thoroughly. Leftover soap can make deck pads slippery.

Cleaning the Deck Pad

The EVA pad is where all the dirt from your feet, your dog, and your snacks ends up. Here’s how to deal with it:

• Use mild soap and a soft brush—nothing too stiff.

• Rinse thoroughly. A slippery pad is no fun.

• Do not use 303 or other protectants on the pad—it’ll just make it slick.

Protecting the PVC Shell

Think of 303 Aerospace Protectant as sunscreen for your board :

• It blocks UV rays that degrade PVC over time.

• It helps repel dirt and keep your board looking newer.

• Apply it only to the PVC (not the pad). Spray lightly, wipe with a microfiber cloth, and reapply every month or two.

Your pump might not be the sexiest piece of gear, but it's essential. Whether manual or electric, keeping it clean and functioning well will save time, frustration, and potentially your entire paddling day.

Manual Pump Care

Manual pumps (usually dual-stage) are simple, but they don’t take kindly to neglect. Here’s how to keep yours working like new:

• Keep it off the ground. Sand and dirt are the biggest threats. Don't just toss your pump on the ground when you are done using it, but it back in the bag or your car; you don't want debris getting on the shaft of your pump. (Also, just great life advice for men)

• Wipe it down regularly. After use, give the shaft and outer housing a quick wipe with a damp cloth. This helps prevent dust or grit from making its way inside.

• Avoid high heat. Don’t store your pump in a hot garage or car. Extreme temps can warp seals and dry out internal components.

• Watch the hose. Cracking at the valve or pump end is a common failure point. Inspect it before and after trips.

• Use the right stage. On a dual-action pump, start with high volume to get the board filled quickly, then switch to high pressure as the resistance builds. Don’t force past 10 PSI in the high-volume setting.

• Lube as needed. If the pump starts feeling sticky or jerky, it might be time for a little silicone-based grease on the piston. Never use petroleum-based lubes—they break down rubber seals.

Electric Pump Care

Electric pumps are a gift to paddlers—until they stop working. Treat them with care:

• Respect the duty cycle. Most electric pumps are rated for one board at a time. Let them cool for 20–30 minutes before inflating a second board, or you’ll cook the motor.

• Protect the air intake. Sand in the intake is a fast track to a dead motor. Brush it off, blow it out, or tap-clean after each use.

• Check the hose and connectors. Don’t overtighten the valve connector, and don’t leave the hose kinked in storage. Straight and clean is the goal.

• Run the engine. Always keep your car running if you're using a 12V cigarette lighter port. Inflating with the engine off will drain your battery fast.

• Avoid overheating in storage. Whether battery-powered or not, heat destroys internal electronics. Don’t leave your electric pump in a hot vehicle or baking on the dock.

The mighty paddle, the unsung hero of paddleboarding, here is how to take care of your trusty sidekick. 

Most people use a 3-piece adjustable paddle (some even 4-piece for compact travel), and while they’re incredibly convenient, they need regular attention if you want them to stay smooth and usable.

Rinse it, or lose it

Saltwater, sand, and grit are the enemies of your adjustable paddle. If you don’t take it apart and rinse each piece after every few uses—especially after ocean paddling—those perfectly smooth connections will start to feel like a rusted garden hose. Worse, they’ll eventually seize up entirely.

• Rinse with fresh water after every saltwater session.

• Dry before reassembling if you’re packing it away for a while.

• Pay attention to joints —those little grains of sand get everywhere.

Don’t trust that it's clean

Even after a quick rinse, it’s smart to occasionally disassemble and inspect each part. Look inside the shaft for salt crystals, check the adjustment mechanism (especially levers or clips) for wear or buildup, and give everything a wipe.

• If it’s sticky or rough, a little silicone spray lubricant (never WD-40) on the adjustment track can help.

• If you see white buildup , that’s dried salt—rinse it off thoroughly before it causes corrosion or locking issues.

Storage matters

If you’re storing your paddle long-term, keep it in pieces and in a cool, dry place . Fully assembled paddles are more likely to seize or warp if left unused in heat or humidity.

• Bonus tip: If it’s a travel day, keep the paddle sections in a padded sleeve or sock to avoid scuffs or dents in transport.

Before the snow falls and your SUP hibernates, take a few minutes to do it right. Here’s how to store your board properly so it’s ready to go next spring:

✅ 1. Clean it—really clean it.

• Wash with mild soap (like Dawn ) and rinse thoroughly.

• Scrub around the valve , fin box , and deck pad .

• Check for grit or sand under the valve cap and in the seams.

✅ 2. Let it dry completely.

• Even a little moisture can create mildew or degrade adhesives.

• Open the valve and prop the board in a dry, shaded area.

• If packed up wet by mistake, unroll and dry it ASAP.

✅ 3. Inspect for wear or damage.

• Look for seam bulges , valve leaks , or any wear on rails.

• Spray the valve with soapy water to check for slow leaks.

• Tighten the valve only when deflated using your included wrench.

✅ 4. Deflate and roll loosely.

• Avoid sharp folds.

• Don’t cinch the straps too tight—give the material room to breathe.

✅ 5. Store in a cool, dry place.

• No attics, garages, or sheds that get blazing hot or freezing cold.

• Keep it out of direct sunlight—UV damage is no joke.

• Store it in the bag , or flat under a bed , on a shelf , etc.

Let spring find you prepped and ready—not scrambling with a leaky valve and sticky paddle.

✅ 1. Inspect before inflating.

• Unroll the board and look for any creases , seam issues , or rodent damage (it happens).

• Check that fin hardware , valve cap , and D-rings are intact.

✅ 2. Inflate and check for leaks.

• Inflate to 12–14 PSI and listen/feel for leaks.

• Spray valve area with soapy water—look for bubbles.

• Re-tighten the valve if needed (remember: only when deflated ).

✅ 3. Clean off the dust.

• Wipe down with a damp cloth or rinse if it’s been sitting.

• Use 303 protectant to recondition the shell—just not on the deck pad.

✅ 4. Check your paddle.

• Take apart your 3-piece paddle , rinse the shafts, and dry them.

• If it feels gritty or sticky, clean with warm water and mild soap.

• Use silicone spray to keep adjustments smooth (never WD-40).

✅ 5. Double-check your gear.

• Make sure your leash , fin , pump , and bag are in working order.

• Replace or repair any damaged parts now, before you’re standing lakeside with a missing fin.

You don’t need a lesson to paddleboard — but a few basic steps can save you some awkward falls and make your first sessions way more enjoyable.

Getting On Your Paddleboard

Start in knee-deep water — deep enough so the fin doesn’t drag, shallow enough that you can step on with control.

Kneel near the center of the board (usually over the carry handle). Take your time here. You don’t need to rush to your feet — paddle around on your knees until you feel balanced and comfortable.

When you’re ready to stand:

• Place your paddle across the board for balance.

• Bring one foot up, then the other — right where your knees were.

• In one smooth motion, stand up, knees slightly bent, eyes forward.

If you fall, climb back on from the side. Don’t panic, and don’t try to stand immediately after falling — reset in a kneeling position first.

Balancing on Your Board

• Look ahead, not down. Your brain uses your eyes to help balance. Looking at the horizon = stable. Looking at your toes = splash.

• Feet shoulder-width apart, straddling the handle. That’s your center of gravity.

• Knees bent and body loose. You’re not trying to freeze like a statue — think light and athletic.

• Use your paddle for stability. Even just dipping the blade in the water adds resistance and control.

A little forward motion helps a lot. Once you're moving, the board becomes much more stable than when you're standing still.

Paddling 101

• Use your core, not your arms. The power comes from rotation — not biceps.

• Stack your hands. Top hand over the bottom, shaft vertical, and pull the blade from the nose to about your feet.

• Switch sides every few strokes to stay straight and balanced.

• Exit clean. Dragging your paddle behind you slows you down and adds wobble.

Coming In Like a Pro

When you’re heading back to shore, don’t ride it all the way in standing. As you get into shallower water, drop to your knees.

Watch the fin — if it catches the bottom, you’ll go flying.
Step off the board once you’re in knee-deep water, then guide the board in by hand.

Quick Safety Note

Always wear your leash — it keeps your paddleboard close if you fall. And unless you're paddling in a designated swim area or very shallow, calm water, wear a PFD (personal flotation device). It's not just a good idea — in many places, it's the law.

We’ll break down the different types of leashes and PFDs later in this guide, but for now: leash up, vest on, paddle out.

Falling in happens. Whether it’s your first day or your 500th, wind, waves, or just a wobble can send you for a swim. Here’s how to handle it with confidence—and get back to paddling quickly.

1. Stay calm.

You're floating—because you're wearing a PFD (you are wearing it, right?). Your board didn’t go far because your leash is doing its job. Take a breath and reset.

A proper-fitting PFD keeps your head above water , gives you time to catch your breath, and helps you stay relaxed—especially in chop or current. Even strong swimmers will benefit. And your leash keeps the board nearby , so you’re not chasing it across the lake or trying to tread water and paddle at the same time.

2. Grab your board first.

The paddle can wait. Use your leash to pull the board to you if it drifted. Flip it upright if needed, then steady yourself by grabbing the side handles or rail.

3. Climb on from the side.

Don’t try to clamber up from the nose or tail. Instead, kick your legs and pull your chest up onto the board from the side. Then slide a knee on, shift your weight toward the middle, and get balanced. Trying to use your paddle like a pull-up bar usually ends with another splash.

4. Take your time.

You’re up—but don’t rush to stand. Sit or kneel for a moment. Breathe. Falling in takes energy and can knock your focus, so give yourself a few seconds to reset before standing back up.

5. Regain balance.

When you're ready, stand with your feet shoulder-width apart, knees slightly bent, and eyes on the horizon. Keep a little forward motion as you stand—momentum = stability.

6. Coming back to shore?

As you approach shallow water, drop to your knees . You’ll be more stable and it protects your fin from dragging or snapping on the bottom. Step off in knee-deep water, and lift the tail to keep the fin safe.

Safety Recap

• Wear your PFD. Always. It’s your personal flotation device, not your “optional flotation suggestion.”

• Use your leash. It keeps your board within reach, even in chop, current, or when you’re tired.

• Take your time. Getting back on is easy if you stay calm and don’t rush.

• Falling is normal. It’s part of learning, exploring, and pushing yourself. No shame in swimming.

We’ve covered how to get up, paddle, and recover from a fall—but avoiding common mistakes can make your day on the water a lot smoother. Here's what to skip, so your SUP session stays safe and fun.

Don’t forget your leash and PFD.

Your leash keeps the board from drifting away when you fall. Your PFD keeps you afloat without effort. Together, they make recovery faster, easier, and safer. Wear both. Always.

Don’t stand too soon.

Trying to stand up in shallow water while your fin is dragging bottom? That’s a great way to faceplant. Paddle out to at least waist-deep water before standing.

Don’t stare at your feet.

It’s a rookie move that throws off your balance. Eyes up, knees soft, hips loose. Looking ahead gives your body the feedback it needs to stay upright.

Don’t go too slow.

A little speed makes you more stable, not less. Slow paddling feels wobbly. A few strong strokes forward, and the board locks in.

Don’t panic when you fall in.

Falling is part of the experience. Float. Breathe. Grab your leash and reel the board in. Climb back on from the side using the center handle. Take a beat to catch your breath and reset.

Don’t bring everything you own.

Your board isn’t a floating garage sale. Unless you’re fishing or camping, keep it simple: water, drybag, sunscreen. Maybe a snack.

Don’t skip hydration.

You're out in the sun, maybe for hours. Dehydration sneaks up fast. Bring a bottle and sip often.

Don’t give up too early.

Everyone feels weird at first. Give it 15 minutes. Wobble. Fall. Laugh. Then it clicks.

If your paddle’s too short, you’ll hunch and stress your back. Too long, and you’ll waste energy reaching too high. The right height makes a huge difference in comfort, control, and efficiency.

General Setup

Stand the paddle vertically beside you, with the blade on the ground. Reach your arm straight up above your head. Your palm should rest naturally on the handle—no shrugging, no stretching.

Activity-Specific Tweaks

• Touring / flatwater paddling : 6–8 inches above your head. Helps with reach and longer, more powerful strokes.

• Whitewater / surf : Closer to head-height or even a little shorter. Improves maneuverability.

• Racing / high cadence : Slightly shorter than touring. Helps with faster turnover.

A paddle only works if you’re holding it correctly—which surprisingly, a lot of people don’t.

Hand Placement

• Top hand goes on the T-grip at the top.

• Bottom hand grips the shaft—your arms should form a rough “box” when the paddle is over your head.

• A good rule: when the paddle’s overhead, your elbows should be at about 90°.

This setup gives you maximum reach, power, and efficiency—without straining your shoulders.

Blade Orientation

The logo or angle of the blade should face forward (away from you). If the blade is curved, the curve should point forward.

Using it backward is the most common beginner mistake, and makes every stroke less effective.

Paddle Stroke Basics

• Reach forward and bury the blade fully in the water.

• Pull back through your core , not just your arms.

• Stop your stroke at your feet. Pulling past your feet wastes energy and throws off balance.

• Recover the paddle and repeat on the other side. Use your whole body—not just your arms—for propulsion.

Turning isn’t about muscle—it’s about method. Whether you’re adjusting your line slightly or spinning around quickly, here’s how to do it right.

Sweep Stroke (Most Common)

• Plant your paddle up near the nose.

• Make a wide arc all the way to the tail.

• Paddle on the opposite side of the direction you want to turn —paddle right to go left, and vice versa.

• Keep the paddle blade submerged the whole time for best effect.

This stroke gives you smooth, predictable turns while keeping your momentum.

Back Paddle Turn (Quick Turn in Place)

• Place your paddle behind you, blade fully in the water.

• Push forward, away from the tail.

• Paddle on the same side you want to turn toward .

This move spins the board in place. Great for tighter spaces, docking, or fast changes of direction.

Step-Back Pivot Turn (Advanced)

• Shift your back foot toward the tail to lift the nose.

• Bend your knees and stay centered to maintain balance.

• Use a sweep stroke to spin the board around.

Expect to fall the first few times. Practice in calm water and work your way up. Once dialed, this turn feels powerful and snappy.

Subtle Adjustments

• Feather the paddle angle or use slightly shorter strokes on one side to gradually steer.

• Perfect for making small corrections without breaking rhythm.

Coming Out of the Turn

When your turn is complete, stabilize your stance, reset your paddle rhythm, and lock back into your line.

Checking the weather isn’t just something to do “just in case”—it’s essential. Wind, storms, and temperature shifts can turn an easy paddle into a rescue situation fast.

Watch the Wind

• Wind is the #1 thing that will ruin your day. A light breeze might feel good at the dock, but it can push you way off course once you're on the water.

• Always paddle into the wind first. If you get tired, at least you’ll have a tailwind coming home. Getting blown away from shore on your return trip is no fun.

• Wind builds over the day. Morning is usually calmest. By late afternoon, wind and chop often pick up—especially on lakes and open water.

• Whitecaps = don’t paddle. If you see whitecaps forming, especially if you're a beginner, sit it out. It's not worth the risk.

Storms Aren’t Just Rain

• Lightning + water = no thanks. If there's any thunder or lightning nearby, get off the water. No exceptions.

• Check hourly radar. Weather apps give you the full picture. Wind gusts and sudden temperature drops are signs of approaching storms.

• Cloud cover and temperature matter. Hypothermia can sneak up on you if the air is cool and you’re wet—even in summer.

Temperature Rules

• Cold water kills. Even if the air is warm, falling into 50–60°F water without a wetsuit or drysuit can be dangerous.

• Dress for the water, not the air. You might overheat a little on deck, but better safe than hypothermic in the water.

Don’t Just Check Once—Monitor

• Conditions change. What was safe 30 minutes ago might not be now.

• Set alerts on your phone for wind and storm changes.

• Always let someone know your float plan.

Leash and PFD Are Non-Negotiable

If the wind picks up and you fall in, your board becomes a sail. Your leash keeps it with you. Your PFD keeps you floating. These two things keep you from becoming a statistic.

Wind is the biggest challenge you’ll face on a paddleboard—especially on lakes, open bays, or coastal areas. It doesn’t take much for your leisurely day to turn into a slogfest, or a rescue. 

Start by Paddling Into the Wind

This is rule #1 for a reason. Always paddle into the wind on your way out. That way, when you’re tired later, the wind helps push you home instead of dragging you out farther.

Why this matters:
A 10 mph headwind on the return trip feels like paddling uphill. Add some chop, and it becomes a sufferfest. Get it out of the way early.

Stay Low and Tight When It’s Windy

Standing up in strong wind is like holding a sail. Instead, shift to:

• Kneeling or sitting to reduce wind resistance.

• Short, quick strokes to maintain momentum.

• Choking up on the paddle (hold it lower) for more control.

If it’s really blowing, don’t be afraid to stay on your knees for the whole return trip. Pride doesn’t tow boards home.

Read the Water, Not Just the Weather App

Wind can shift mid-paddle, so pay attention:

• Watch the water texture. Glassy = calm. Ruffled = breeze. Whitecaps = don’t even try.

• Feel your resistance. If your paddle suddenly feels heavier or your board turns on its own, wind direction probably shifted.

• Look for shore signs. Tree movement, flags, and boats can tell you a lot before it’s too late.

Use the Shoreline to Your Advantage

• Stay close to shore so you can bail out if needed.

• If wind picks up unexpectedly, hug the downwind side of the lake or bay. It’ll offer the most protection.

• Use natural wind breaks: points, coves, cliffs , or even large docks.

Board Positioning: Nose Into the Wind

• Always point your nose into the wind when resting or stopping.

• Sidewind? Adjust your stance slightly and increase your paddle cadence to keep tracking straight.

Your paddle acts like a rudder in wind. Use it like one.

If You Get Blown Off Course

• Don’t panic. Stay calm and switch to kneeling or sitting.

• Use the low profile + short stroke method.

• If the wind is unmanageable and you’re drifting, get to shore, walk back.

Remember: your leash keeps the board with you, and your PFD keeps you afloat. You’re not stuck—you’re just rerouting.

Final Wind Warnings

• Never go out when offshore winds are blowing (wind blowing away from shore).

• Don’t try to “just muscle through” a strong headwind—you’ll burn out fast.

• If in doubt, don’t go out.

Whether you’re exploring rivers, coastal inlets, or ocean bays, understanding how tides and currents affect your paddle board is essential. These natural forces can turn a mellow paddle into a fight for your life—or help you cruise with ease. Here’s what every paddler should know.

Tides: The Invisible Pull of the Moon (Sneaky little bugger)

Tides are the daily rise and fall of water levels caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and sun. Most coastal areas have two high tides and two low tides each day. Here's how it impacts your paddle boarding:

• Incoming (Flood) Tide: Water is rising and moving inland. Great for exploring estuaries or riding into coves.

• Outgoing (Ebb) Tide: Water is dropping and flowing back out to sea. If you’re not paying attention, it can pull you farther than you realize.

Watch the timing: Paddling out at high tide might mean fighting a strong ebb on your way back. Use a tide chart (or app) before every session—especially in saltwater areas.

Currents: The Water is Always Moving

Currents are directional flows of water caused by tides, river movement, wind, and geography. They can be mild and barely noticeable—or downright dangerous.

• Tidal Currents: Especially in narrow channels or bays, water moves fast during tide changes. Think river-like conditions with changing directions.

• River Currents: Always moving downstream. You can use these to your advantage—or find yourself stuck if you tried to paddle upstream too far.

• Rip Currents: Strong, narrow currents pulling away from shore. Rarely an issue for inland paddling, but ocean paddlers must know how to spot and escape them.

Quick tip: Look for clues—like stationary debris moving past you, or eddies (swirling water) near structures.

Planning Around Tides and Currents

You can absolutely paddle in areas with tides and currents—it just takes some planning.

• Know the forecast. Use a tide chart or local marine forecast app.

• Plan your route with the flow. Go against the current or tide when you're fresh, so it's easier coming back.

• Avoid pinch points. Narrow inlets or rivers can concentrate flow and amplify current speed.

• Know your limits. If you're unsure, don’t go too far. Play it safe.

When Things Go Wrong

Caught in a current that’s stronger than you expected?

• Stay calm. Kneel or sit for better control.

• Angle your board diagonally across the flow , not directly against it.

• If needed, let it take you to shore, walk your board back.

TLDR: Currents and Tides on a Paddle Board

• Tides rise and fall daily—check tide charts before heading out.

• Currents can help or hurt—understand the direction and strength.

• Plan to paddle into the current or tide first, ride it home later.

• If caught in strong flow, stay calm, kneel down, and don’t fight it directly.

• Coastal and river paddling = more fun when you’re prepared.

If you’re new to paddleboarding, don’t overthink it. You don’t need fancy gear, but a few smart choices go a long way toward staying comfortable, safe, and ready for whatever the water throws at you.

What to Wear on a Paddleboard

Your outfit depends on the weather and water temp. Dress like you might fall in, and you’ll never regret it.

Warm Weather

• Swimsuit or boardshorts. Quick-dry and comfy. Bonus points if you skip cotton—it stays wet forever.

• Rash guard or sun shirt. UV protection, no sunscreen required.

• Water shoes or sandals (optional). Good for rocky put-ins or lake bottoms that feel... suspicious.

• Hat + sunglasses. Go for a floaty strap, or you’ll be fishing them off the bottom.

Cooler Weather

• Layers. Think wetsuit or paddle jacket. You’ll get wet. Wind chill is real.

• Avoid cotton. Seriously, it’s the enemy. My butt looks great in skinny jeans, but, not a great fabric for paddling. 

Cold Water / Shoulder Season

• Wetsuit or drysuit. Especially important if you’re paddling solo or far from shore. Cold water kills stoke fast.

Essential Gear to Bring

Most of this fits in your bag or dry pouch. Think small, light, and smart.

• PFD (Personal Flotation Device). Required in many areas. Look for SUP-specific designs—trim, comfy, and won’t mess with your stroke.

• Leash. Always. Your paddleboard is your biggest flotation device.

• Water + snacks. You’re paddling, not hiking Everest—but staying hydrated matters.

• Dry bag. Keys, phone, sunscreen, snack stash. Zip it up and clip it down.

• Whistle. Required in some places. Loud enough to get attention if you need help.

• Sun protection. Sunscreen, hat, UPF shirt. The water reflects more UV than you think.

• Phone in a waterproof case. Great for safety and snapping a brag pic.

Optional but Nice to Have

• Small towel. Wipe off. Sit on it. Dry gear.

• Waterproof watch or GPS. If you’re into tracking distance or time.

• Compact first aid kit. Especially if you're going remote.

TLDR: Paddleboard Wear & Gear

• Dress for immersion, not just air temp.

• Bring a leash and a PFD. No debate.

• Add sunscreen, water, and a dry bag for basics.

• Stay minimalist—but don’t skimp on safety.

Whether you're brand new to the sport or have been paddling for years, chances are you've heard a few words on the water that made you raise an eyebrow. From surf lingo to river slang, inflatable tech to race-day jargon—this glossary covers it all.

We’ve stripped out the fluff and the fantasy (no one’s doing a back deck roll on a SUP) and kept it grounded in the real world of stand-up paddleboarding. This list is meant to help you paddle smarter, shop more confidently, and feel less confused next time someone drops the word “eddyline.”

Here’s everything you never knew you needed to know about SUP speak—from A-frame to Z-drag.

A massive list of every term you’ll hear (and maybe use) in the world of SUP.

A

• A-frame – A type of wave that peaks in the center and breaks left and right.

• Air Valve – The valve used to inflate or deflate an inflatable SUP; most high-quality boards use a Halkey-Roberts valve.

• All-Around – A SUP shape meant to handle a wide range of conditions, from flat water to small surf.

• Anchor Point – A D-ring or mount used to attach an anchor or tether point for yoga, fishing, or stationary paddling.

B

• Bag (SUP bag) – The travel/storage bag for your board. Good ones have wheels, padded straps, and room for accessories.

• Balance – Your ability to stay upright; enhanced by width, stiffness, and volume of the board.

• Blade – The flat, wide end of the paddle that moves water.

• Bleed Valve – A safety feature in some pumps or boards to release excess air pressure.

• Bungee System – Elastic cords on the board used to secure gear.

• Buoy Turn – A pivot turn around a fixed point—used in racing, also fun to learn.

C

• Carbon Rails – Often just PVC printed to look like carbon fiber; real carbon fiber in rails has minimal benefit without resin.

• Catch – The phase of the paddle stroke where the blade enters the water.

• Center Fin – The large fin in the middle of the board; improves tracking.

• Chine – The curve or angle where the rail meets the bottom of the board.

• Clip Mount – Attachment point for accessories like action cameras, rod holders, etc.

• Core Material – The internal drop-stitch structure that gives an inflatable SUP its shape and stiffness.

D

• Deck – The top surface of the board where you stand.

• Deck Pad – The EVA foam pad covering the deck, providing grip and comfort.

• Delamination – A serious failure where the layers of a board separate; common in poor-quality boards.

• Displacement Hull – A nose shape that slices through water, typical on touring or racing boards.

• Downwind Paddleboarding – Riding with the wind at your back and surfing the bumps—fast and addicting.

• Drag – Resistance from water or wind that slows your board.

E

• Eddy – A calm area of water behind an obstruction, common in river paddling.

• Eddyline – The swirling line where the current meets an eddy.

• Epoxy Board – A hard board made with EPS foam and a fiberglass/epoxy shell.

F

• Fin Box – The slot where the fin is attached. US fin boxes are standard and widely compatible.

• Fixed Fin – A fin permanently attached to the board—common on cheaper SUPs.

• Flatwater – Calm lakes, bays, or ponds—ideal conditions for beginners.

• Flex – Unwanted bend in the board; bad for performance.

• Foot Placement – The stance positioning on your board—crucial for stability and control.

G

• Glide – How efficiently a board moves across the water. (Also the best boards on the market ;) )

• Grom – A young paddler.

• Grub Screw – A small screw that secures US-style fins in place.

• Grab Handle – Built-in handle in the center or front/back of the board for carrying.

H

• Halkey-Roberts Valve – Industry-standard valve for inflatable boards.

• Hard Board – A rigid SUP made from fiberglass, epoxy, or plastic.

• Hull – The bottom shape of the board; includes planing and displacement styles.

• Hybrid SUP – A board designed for multiple uses, like SUP/kayak hybrids or surf/tour hybrids.

I

• Inflatable SUP (iSUP) – Boards constructed with drop-stitch and PVC; portable and durable.

• ISLE – A popular SUP brand, often mentioned in comparisons.

• iROCKER – Another major brand in the iSUP space.

J

• J-stroke – A paddling technique used to correct tracking while paddling on one side.

K

• Kayak Seat – An accessory that attaches to some inflatable SUPs, converting them into a sit-down kayak-style paddleboard.

• Kick Pad – A raised section at the tail for pivot turns.

• Kook – A term (used lightly) for someone new to the sport or making obvious mistakes. We’ve all been there.

L

• Leash – The coiled or straight tether that connects you to your board—critical safety gear.

• Length – Affects tracking and glide; longer boards are faster, shorter boards turn quicker.

• Lift – The upward force created during certain paddling or turning motions.

M

• Max PSI – The highest safe inflation pressure for your inflatable SUP. A good sign of build quality.

• Mounting Points – D-rings or threaded ports for attaching gear.

• Mildew – The gross side effect of packing up your board wet. Don’t do it.

N

• Nose – The front of the board. Can be round, pointed, or shaped for specific performance.

• Nose Rocker – Upward curve at the nose; more rocker helps in waves or whitewater.

O

• Offshore Wind – Blows away from land—can be dangerous if you’re not careful.

• Onshore Wind – Blows toward land—less dangerous but creates chop.

P

• Paddle Blade – The part of the paddle that goes in the water.

• Paddle Shaft – The long section of the paddle; can be one, two, or three-piece.

• Pivot Turn – A quick turn using a back step and sweep stroke.

• Planing Hull – A flat bottom that rides on top of the water, good for general use and surf.

Q

• Quick Release Belt – A waist leash system commonly used in whitewater for safety.

R

• Rails – The edges of the board that influence durability and stiffness.

• Rail Tape – Protective tape to guard against paddle dings (more for hard boards).

• Rocker – The curvature from nose to tail; more rocker = better in waves, less = better glide.

• Racing SUP – A narrow, fast board built for speed and competition.

S

• Seam – Where two panels of PVC are joined; vulnerable to failure if not done right.

• Shaka – Hawaiian hand sign often seen in surf culture.

• Side Fins – Smaller fins on each side of the center fin—help with maneuverability.

• Stringer – A strip of material on top or bottom of an inflatable meant to add stiffness (though usually more hype than help).

• SUP – Stand Up Paddleboard. You knew that, right?

• Surf SUP – A shorter board designed for catching and carving waves.

T

• Tail – The back end of the board.

• Tracking – How straight the board moves with each paddle stroke.

• Tri-fin Setup – One center fin with two side fins; improves turning and tracking.

U

• US Fin Box – A standard fin box compatible with many aftermarket fins—preferred over proprietary setups.

V

• Volume – How much air a board holds; higher volume means more float and stability.

• Valve Wrench – A tool used to tighten or service the inflation valve.

W

• Waterline – The part of the board that sits in the water. Affects speed and efficiency.

• Wave Period – Time between waves—important in surf SUP.

• Welded Rails – Rails that are heat-fused instead of glued. Durable but hard to repair if they fail.

• Whitewater SUP – Inflatable boards built for river paddling—stiff, short, and wide with nose/tail rocker.

• Windage – How much the board is affected by wind. Higher boards = more windage.

Z

• Z-drag – A pulley system used in river rescue. Useful for unpinning boards (or people) stuck in current.