Storing your iSUP the right way means faster spring launches, longer material life, and fewer surprises (mildew, soft spots, faded deck pad). Use these five proven tips to protect your inflatable paddle board through winter—or any time you’re off the water.

UV rays break down PVC coatings and fade graphics.

• Store out of direct sun: closets, gear rooms, interior walls, or shaded garage corners.

• Use a breathable cover or bag: protects from dust and accidental scuffs (avoid plastic tarps that trap moisture).

• In vehicles: never leave a board baking in car windows; heat + UV accelerate glue fatigue.

Salt, algae, and grime can stain deck pads and degrade materials over time.

• Rinse, then wash: mild soap + water and a soft sponge; skip harsh solvents.

• Spot clean: a little isopropyl alcohol on a cloth can lift stubborn marks—test first.

• Hardware check: remove sand from fin box and leash D-ring; rinse valve area.

• Dry fully: towel the deck pad and rails, then air dry before packing.

Moisture trapped in a board or bag = musty odor and mold risk.

• Air dry completely: especially the deck pad, seams, handle, and valve cap.

• Dry storage space: off the floor on a shelf/rack; avoid damp basements.

• Desiccant packs: drop a few silica gel packs in the bag for long storage.

• Loosely packed: don’t vacuum-seal the bag—let air circulate a bit.

PVC and adhesives dislike big hot/cold swings.

• Stable temps: interior rooms are ideal; insulated garages work if they stay relatively steady.

• No hot attics: extreme heat can soften glue; deep-freeze temps can stiffen PVC and gaskets.

• Pressure changes: cold lowers pressure, heat raises it—see inflate/deflate tips below.

Both are safe if you follow a few rules.

If storing deflated

• Fold smart: start opposite the valve and roll/fold toward it, pressing out air as you go.

• Avoid hard creases: use wide folds; change the fold pattern every few months to prevent memory lines.

• Fin box protection: keep fins removed; add a soft cloth over the box before folding.

If storing inflated (or partially inflated)

• Use a rack: padded wall or ceiling rack keeps the hull supported.

• Back off the PSI: store at a reduced pressure (e.g., 4–7 PSI) to reduce seam stress, then top up before paddling.

• Check monthly: cold will drop PSI; warm snaps increase it—ventilate and recheck.

• Rinse, wash, spot-clean; remove fins and leashes

• Dry completely (deck pad, seams, valve)

• Store out of sun; use breathable bag/cover

• Choose stable-temperature space

• Deflated: wide folds, protect fin box, add desiccant

• Inflated: reduced PSI on a padded rack

• Keep away from solvents, sharp tools, and rodent access

• Packing damp (“I’ll dry it later”) → mildew city

• Hard creasing the same way for years → premature fabric memory

• Full-PSI storage in hot spaces → seam stress

• Plastic tarps touching deck pads → trapped moisture, weird imprints

• Chemicals/solvents nearby → off-gassing can degrade PVC

• Hand or electric pump, repair kit with fresh glue/patches

• Fin(s), spare fin hardware/screw, leash, PFD

• Microfiber towel, mild soap, spare silica packs

• Small parts bag (keep everything together)

Good inflatable paddle board storage is simple: clean, dry, dark, and stable. Decide whether inflated or deflated fits your space, reduce PSI if inflated, and avoid sharp creases if folded. Protect the fin box, add desiccant, and you’re set. Do this once and spring setup becomes: unbag, top off PSI, snap in fin—go paddle.